This is a two-day, one-night itinerary for a car-free trip to Yamagata using public transportation. It was enjoyable even without a car. Here’s a rough itinerary:
Day 1
7:15 AM flight from Haneda → Yamagata → Yonezawa → Uesugi Family Mausoleum → Uesugi Shrine → Matsusaki Shrine → Toko Sake Brewery → Bekoya → Takahata Winery → Yamagata Castle Ruins → Overnight stay near Yamagata Station
Day 2
Yamagata Station → Risshakuji Temple → Ginzan Onsen → Yamagata Airport, 7:10 PM departure
This time, on day two, we visited Risshakuji Temple and Ginzan Onsen.
How long does it take to get to Risshakuji Temple? Where is the Matsuo Basho monument?
Take the Senseki Line departing from Yamagata Station at 7:55 AM to Yamadera Station (IC cards accepted, fare: 240 yen). I was able to use my Suica at Yamadera Station.
The entrance to Risshakuji Temple is a short walk from Yamadera Station.
Risshakuji Temple is officially called “Yamadera Risshakuji.” It is said to have been founded around 860 AD by Saicho.
Risshakuji Temple is located at the top of a mountain about 300 meters above sea level and is known for its steep stone steps. The “mountain trail” in particular has approximately 1,050 stone steps.
Risshakuji Temple has many buildings and Buddhist statues designated as Important Cultural Properties, and has long been a beloved place of worship.
From the entrance to the temple’s approach, climb the approximately 1,050 stone steps to reach Okunoin at the summit. It takes 40 to 60 minutes to reach the summit, but those with good stamina can reach the peak in around 35 minutes (I’m a self-proclaimed runner, so I made it in 35 minutes).
You should allow two hours for a round trip visit to Risshakuji Temple.
This is the monument to Matsuo Basho. “The silence of the cicadas’ voices seeping into the rocks” is probably the most famous haiku in Japan.
At Okunoin, at the top of the stairs at Risshakuji Temple, the monks began handing out goshuin stamps just after 9am.
There are no pre-written goshuin stamps, so be sure to bring your own goshuin notebook!
Refresh your skin with the crisp morning air.
Risshakuji Temple
Address: 4456-1 Yamadera, Yamagata City, Yamagata Prefecture
Phone: 023-695-2843
Opening Hours: 8:00 AM – 5:00 PM (varies by season)
Admission Fee: 300 yen for adults, 100 yen for elementary and junior high school students
Lunch at Yamadera Station: Savor Yamagata Cuisine
After visiting Risshakuji Temple, we had lunch at a restaurant near Yamadera Station. We ordered the Yamagata specialty “Imoni Set” and Gassan Beer.
Yamagata’s famous delicacies include taro stew, dashi stock, and shiso rolls. You can enjoy Yamagata’s local cuisine here.
That’s right! Yamagata is synonymous with imoni (simmered sweet potatoes). I found a second-generation imoni pot near Yamadera Station. It’s huge!!
Ginzan Onsen was the inspiration for Spirited Away: A day trip to explore the retro townscape of Ginzan Onsen.
Take the Ou Main Line from Yamadera Station and get off at Oishida Station. From there, take a bus (1,250 yen) to Ginzan Onsen.
Go down the hill from the bus stop and you’ll find a charming hot spring town.
Ginzan Onsen is a hot spring resort located in Obanazawa City, Yamagata Prefecture. Discovered in the early Edo period, it flourished as a therapeutic spa. However, it was destroyed by a major flood in 1913 and has since been rebuilt.
The waters are sodium chloride and sulfate, and are said to be effective for cuts, chronic dermatitis, and neuralgia.
Ginzan Onsen is said to be one of the locations featured in Spirited Away.
Notoya Ryokan, famous for its Ginzan Onsen hot springs, is also known as the filming location for the TV drama “Oshin,” and of course, the inn featured in “Spirited Away.”
Ginzan Onsen is lined with multi-story, Western-style wooden inns built around 80 years ago along the Ginzan River, creating a mystical landscape.
Ginzan Onsen is also home to many tourist attractions, and the depths of the hot spring town are perfect for strolling, with sites like Shirataki Falls and the remains of the silver mine. You can also enjoy a day trip to the hot springs, but this time we’ll be relaxing in a foot bath.
Ginzan Onsen
Address: Ginzan Shinbatake, Obanazawa City, Yamagata Prefecture
Approximately 40 minutes by bus from Oishida Station
Bus service: Approximately once per hour during the day
Ginzan Onsen’s specialty delicacies
The deep-fried tofu at “Tofuya,” located at the entrance to the hot spring town, is crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside—it’s absolutely delicious!
Tofu Shop
Hours: 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM (or until sold out)
Closed: Irregularly
Ending the Trip
Buses run from Ginzan Onsen to Oishida Station and Yamagata Airport. I took the 4:10 PM bus to Yamagata Airport.
I heard that Ginzan Onsen is even more beautiful in winter. Next time I’d like to visit and enjoy the snow scenery.
My two-day, one-night trip to Yamagata was a great experience, even without a car!
